Ruby Lane's Past Times Newsletter for January 2010

In This Issue

• YouTube Video: Happy Valentine's Day from Ruby Lane!
  
• Join Ruby Lane On Twitter and Facebook!
  
• Shop Spotlight: Welcome to SuzansTreasures!
  
• Trifari: The Three Kings of Costume Jewelry
  
• Shop Sampler: In The Spirit of Valentine's Day
  

YOUTUBE VIDEO: HAPPY VALENTINE'S DAY FROM RUBY LANE!

Valentine's Day is coming! Click here to see a special valentine message from Ruby Lane, or go to:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l-plbdZxNUo

JOIN RUBY LANE ON TWITTER AND FACEBOOK!

We want to let all shops know that Ruby Lane is now active on both Twitter and Facebook, and we invite you to join us. Both services are free to join and participate.

Follow us on Twitter: Twitter

Become a Fan on Facebook

SHOP SPOTLIGHT: WELCOME TO SUZANSTREASURES!

SuzansTreasures specializes in heirloom and vintage jewelry, antiques and fine collectibles.

Antiques run in Suzan Miller's family. Her great-grandmother, grandmother, grandfather and mom all had antique shops. Suzan bid (and won) at her first auction when she was 4. The item was 25 cents, and it was all she had at the time.

She worked in her grandmother's shop, which specialized in Victorian glassware, and helped her grandfather, a skilled old-world artisan who rescued old furniture. In her teens, she became interested in Victorian jewelry.

In the 1990's, Suzan had a young family, expected to be out of work, and her husband's company was closing. She turned to her experience and background in antiques and collectibles, just to make ends meet. She has been part of several 'brick and mortar' shops, but discovered Ruby Lane, opening her shop in March of 2000. Things turned out better than she expected, but she was having so much fun on Ruby Lane, that she continued with her shop.

We invite you to visit SuzansTreasures

TRIFARI: THE THREE KINGS OF COSTUME JEWELRY

Innovations in design, marketing, and materials made Trifari one of the most important companies in the history of costume jewelry in the United States. They dominated the market in the mid-20th century because of these innovations, and some of their pieces are still among the most highly collectible styles in the vintage costume jewelry world.

The Early Years

The company was started by Gustavo Trifari . Gustavo was born in Naples, Italy in 1883, the grandson of a successful jeweler and goldsmith. He came to the United States in 1904 and, with his uncle, started Trifari and Trifari. There are varying accounts of the first years of the company, but all appear to agree that the partnership with the uncle was short-lived. Leo Krussman, a salesman from another company, came to work with Trifari in 1917, 1918, or 1924 according to various accounts. Karl Fishel joined the firm in either 1918 , 1923, or 1925. We believe the 1917 dating is most accurate for the arrival of Krussman and 1925 for Fishel.

It became Trifari and Krussman, with Leo's arrival, and then Trifari, Krussman, and Fishel with the addition of Karl. The three were sometimes referred to as "The Rhinestone Kings".

Alfred Phillipe

The arrival of Alfred Phillipe in 1930 started a new major chapter in the history of the company. Phillipe had been a designer and jeweler with Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels. The economy of the 1930's had limited the demand for the fine jewelry that he had produced, and Phillipe brought some of the style and craftsmanship from the fine jewelry world to Trifari.

Trifari was adopted as the official name and mark of the company by 1937 and the company created their first national ad campaign in 1938, with the tagline "Jewels by Trifari". This was the first known national ad campaign and branding attempt by a costume jewelry manufacturer. The company moved their manufacturing operations from New York to Providence, Rhode Island in 1939, and helped make Providence the center of the costume jewelry industry for most of the 20th century. The design staff, including Phillipe, relocated to Providence, but only for a short period, apparently needing the cultural whirl of New York City to produce their designs.

Early pieces, with a TK in a circle mark most likely date from 1918 to 1925, and the pieces marked TKF date from 1925 to 1937. The Trifari, Krussman, and Fishel Inc. name was associated with the patent rights for decades after the line started being marketed as Trifari.

The War Years and the Peak

World War II placed restrictions on the use of many metals, including tin, and Trifari and many others in the jewelry industry produced their jewelry in Sterling Silver for a time. Like many other jewelry manufacturer's, production of items needed for the war effort took precedence over jewelry production. Trifari produced cartridge shells and parts for torpedoes and airplane engines. They obtained exclusive rights to production of commercial items with the symbol of Great Britain's Royal Air Force, and produced "Sweetheart" pins for family members, with proceeds donated to the war fund.

War efforts also contributed to one of Trifari's great successes. Noticing that Plexiglas windshields for bombers were rejected and scrapped for any flaws, Alfred Phillipe had some of the material cut en cabochon. The Jelly Belly was born, one of the company's most enduring signature pieces.

The 1950's were perhaps the peak years for Trifari. They continued production of military parts during the Korean War, including precision fuse mechanisms. This large operation contributed to the large number of employees, which reached 1200 at the peak. Mamie Eisenhower wore Trifari pearls at both inaugural balls for her husband, President Dwight Eisenhower, and a jewelry line that was good enough for the First Lady was good enough for mid-century America! Trifari was the distributor for Majorica Pearls in the U.S. at one time. They also produced their own simulated pearls for a time, before developing a good source for these in Japan.

Several other designs by Trifari were extremely popular in this period. A crown pin was designed in the early 1940's, but not patented until the end of World War II. It may have been inspired by the connections with Britain that had been established during the War. Variations of the piece were re-issued in the later 1940's, the 1950's, and the 1960's. The Coronation of Elizabeth as Queen in 1953 undoubtedly inspired sales of these designs. The Alfred Phillipe Honeycomb design, issued in 1945, was also a staple of the line in the post-war years.

Business Innovations

Trifari developed a special alloy for their castings, Trifanium. While the date of this is not quite clear, it appears that this was developed during the war years. With some metals normally used for costume jewelry unavailable, the company switched to production in Sterling, sometimes with a Vermeil finish. The Trifanium alloy allowed the use of some traditional production methods not possible with Sterling pieces. It is actually an alloy metal, not a plated finish, as sometimes represented. Trifari was known for their plating as well, and developed their own plating solutions, which they also sold to other costume jewelry manufacturers. Their own plating was very well done, with many pieces plated with 8 times the industry standard for thickness.

The switch from smooth backs to textured backs came in the 1950's, and was a cost and labor-saving issue.

Trifari also pioneered the use of copyrights in relation to Jewelry. While patents for design and utility had existed since the mid-19th century, copyright protection for jewelry only became available in 1947. Trifari may have had more design and utility patents than most jewelry manufacturers, and patent searches can help date a great number of Trifari pieces. Please remember that a patent date only establishes the earliest possible production date for an item, as the same item may have been made for years after the patent was granted. Jewelry manufacturers were slow to adopt the use of copyrights and it is generally accepted that it was not used by manufacturers until the mid-1950's. In 1955, Trifari brought suit against The Charel Jewelry Company for a copyright infringement.

Trifari also developed a marketing program which helped some of their larger retailers weather the post-Christmas slow down in sales. They would select one larger retailer in a major market to promote a special line available after the Holidays, with pre-orders accepted in the Fall Holiday shopping season.

The Acquisition Years

Trifari was purchased by Hallmark in 1975. In one of the great tragedies of costume jewelry, the company design archive, which included samples of many pieces, was dismantled and sold or given away. The last of the Fishels and Krussmans left the firm. While the name remained, the genius and innovation which had made Trifari great were now gone. Crystal Brands acquired the company in 1988, and in 1994 Chase Capital Partners, a division of Monet, acquired Trifari. The Monet Group was acquired by Liz Claiborne in 2000, and all production was moved overseas.

The design patents that Trifari secured over the years make their pieces one of the most widely documented collections of American Costume Jewelry. Their innovative designs and quality production standards assure us that the best of Trifari will always be considered among the best costume jewelry of all time.

SHOP SAMPLER: IN THE SPIRIT OF VALENTINE'S DAY

Heads Up Vintage Collectibles: Head Vases, Figural Pottery, Vanity Items, Jewelry Fun Vintage Collectibles Antiques!

Sweet Valentine Figural Lady Planter

This a valentine planter that you do not run across often. She has a great dress—Cinderella style with two hearts on the front. She holds a bouquet of...

ArtsnEnds: A Little Bit of This, A Little Bit of That, Vintage Collectibles

Three Valentine's Day Greeting Cards

Three Valentine's Day cards, one a dog with a movable head 7 1 2 x 4; one a foldover with a girl watering flowers 3 1 4 x 3 1 4 , and the last with ...

Bonnie Boswell Antiques: Quality Vintage items for you and your home

Lovely Victorian German Die Cut Honeycomb Valentine

I just LOVE this card.. This really is one of those cards that makes you smile. It is 8 tall and can be shown either in a semi-circle or full ...

Dorland Antiques: Catholic Medals Statues Religious Art Antiques Jewelry

Saint Valentine French Reliquary Catholic Christianity Religious Icon

Offering for sale a very rare and very old reliquary for Saint Valentine. This is a Catholic reliquary, from France, in a gold tone or brass tone ...

All N The Family Collectibles: Offerings items from the past for all budgets under the sun

Valentine Day Postcard Incised Love's Greetings Large Heart Lovely Flowers Foil Background

Lovely postcard for Valentine's Day. it has everything. Lovely flowers, large heart, a great picture of a lady and gold foil background. It has not ...

Barnsley Collection: Quality Goods for the Discerning Customer

Vintage Gold Tone Heart Compact with Guilloche Enamel Heart

The original heart shaped puff and the original powder is still intact. The mirror has some age spots; however, the powder alone is worth collecting ...

In One Era: A wonderful treasure trove of vintage costume and estate jewelry,collectables,art and antiques

1940's Wallace Sterling Grand Baroque Pattern Heart Bon Bon Dish

Here is a hard to find Wallace sterling Grand Baroque bowl.It's 6 x 4 1 2 and in the shape of a heart.Either a bon bon or nut dish.Circa 1940's and ...

Industrial Blonde: A fine, fun, and funky assortment for discerning collectors

Vintage 10K Gold Miraculous Medal with Virgin Mary in a Heart

This is a little 10k rose gold Miraculous Medal. Mary appears in the center of an open-edged heart. Around her are the words "Mary conceived without...

R C Antiques: Vintage Jewelry Antiques Dolls Collectibles A Ruby Lane Platinum Shop

Vintage Vogue Jill Doll all original Heart Earrings SEXY Rhinestone High Heels

This Vogue doll is from an estate. She was stored almost from the time she was purchased by the original family. Although her hair is a little ...

Jeri Schwartz Antiques: Specializing in Fine Objects of Vertu, Perfume Bottles Wonderful Victoriana!

One of a kind! Circa 1880, Black Starr Frost, Sterling Silver, Heart Shaped, Bodkin Case Sewing Kit Trinket Box with Original, MATCHING, Simons Brothers, Sterling Silver Tools

One of a kind! Circa 1880, Black Starr Frost, Sterling Silver, Heart Shaped, Bodkin Case Sewing Kit Trinket Box with Original, MATCHING, Simons ...